Steps to Create Your Own Murphy Bed

Project Summary

• Hours of Operation: 6 to 8 hours
• Overall Duration: 1 to 2 days
• Output: One Murphy bed featuring elegant cabinet doors.

• Proficiency Level: Expert
• Projected Expense: Between $600 and $700

Constructing a DIY Murphy bed allows you to maximize your floor area while providing a cozy and convenient sleeping arrangement for visitors. Murphy beds, also known as wall beds, are designed to save space by folding up against the wall or into a cabinet.

You can create your own Murphy bed using these DIY plans for under $1,000, which includes features like reading lights, electrical outlets, USB ports, and a hardware kit for the bed. Murphy bed kits are available in a range of sizes, such as twin, full, queen, and king, simplifying the process of constructing a Murphy bed on your own.

Continue reading to discover how to create a stylish Murphy bed that remains visually appealing when not in use, all while being budget-friendly.

What is the price of a DIY Murphy bed?

Constructing a Murphy bed yourself is significantly more economical than purchasing a pre-made one. The price of a Murphy bed can start at around $3,000, with high-end models going beyond $10,000. In contrast, sourcing materials such as plywood and solid wood for a DIY project can set you back just a few hundred dollars. Additionally, if you choose to utilize a Murphy bed hardware kit as outlined in this guide, you can expect to invest a few hundred dollars more.

Certain DIY enthusiasts choose to skip the Murphy bed hardware kits to cut costs while constructing a Murphy bed. The downside to this decision is the loss of features like concealed legs and the ease of assisted opening. However, if these features aren’t particularly important to you, creating a DIY Murphy bed without the hardware kit is quite straightforward.

The Expense of Timber for a Murphy Bed

The average expense for the wood required to construct a simple Murphy bed is under $400. This DIY Murphy bed project employs a combination of standard pine lumber and plywood, both of which are durable and budget-friendly choices. For a more upscale look, consider replacing the facade boards with oak and opting for a stain finish instead of paint.

Murphy Bed Components and Accessories

Instead of basing this DIY Murphy bed guide on a particular hardware kit, it is designed to be flexible and compatible with various options. Typically, Murphy bed hardware kits include three main components: legs, mattress straps, and either springs or pistons to assist with raising and lowering the bed.

This do-it-yourself Murphy bed project will incorporate a Murphy bed hardware kit, but the guide is designed to be tailored to the particular kit you have. If you have any uncertainties, be sure to consult the manufacturer’s instructions for your Murphy bed hardware kit and use any templates included for the leg hardware and springs or pistons.

Alongside the hardware kits, this guide for the Murphy bed features built-in outlets equipped with reading lights and USB ports, maximizing the use of the concealed outlets.

Tip

The following instructions detail the process of constructing a DIY Murphy bed designed for a full-sized mattress (54 inches by 74 inches). Ensure that all materials and cuts specified align with this size. If you choose a different mattress size, be sure to make the necessary adjustments.

Safety Precautions

Every Murphy bed must be firmly attached to the wall unless it is explicitly intended for floor installation. Neglecting this requirement not only creates a serious safety hazard but also undermines the bed’s functionality, as it depends on the wall’s stability for proper operation when being opened and closed.

Requirements You’ll Need

Devices / Instruments

• Measuring ribbon
• Pencil
• Stud locator
• Laser leveling tool
• Chop saw
• Jigsaw
• Brad nail gun with brads
• Drill
• Boring tools
• Iron
• Art materials
• Sander with abrasive paper for orbital use
• Sealant applicator
• Optional oscillating multi-tool
• Crowbar
• Ladder

Materials

• Murphy bed installation hardware set
• Dual-purpose outlet extender with integrated reading lamp.
• Two 1×8 by 8-foot pine planks.
• Three 2×2 by 8-foot pine planks.
• A pine board measuring 2 inches by 4 inches and 8 feet in length.
• Two 2×4 by 10-foot pine planks.
• Two 1×6 boards made of pine, each measuring 10 feet in length.
• Four 1×4 by 10-foot pine planks.
• 1 3/4-inch by 4-foot by 8-foot sanded plywood panel
• Sanded plywood sheet measuring 2 1/4 inches by 4 feet by 8 feet.
• 1.5 x 4′ x 8′ sanded plywood sheet
• 3/4-inch adhesive edge trim
• Adhesive for wood
• 12 1/4 inches by 3-1/2 inches lag screws
• 12 and a quarter inch fender washers
• 2-inch wooden screws
• Two cabinet handles
• Artist’s sealant
• Art materials
• Unfinished wood primer
• Interior coatings

Instructions

Steps to Create Your Own Murphy Bed

Construct the sides of the mattress foundation.

Trim two 2×2 boards and two 1×8 boards to a length of 75 inches each. Attach a 2×2 to the lower edge of a 1×8 using glue and screws, pre-drilling and inserting 2-inch screws at 6-inch intervals. Do the same for the second 1×8 and 2×2.

Round the edges of the mattress base sides (optional).

Utilize the given template along with a jigsaw to create a rounded edge at the upper corners of the sides, if your hardware kit necessitates this modification. Certain Murphy bed hardware kits need the upper sections of the mattress base to feature a rounded design to facilitate the hardware’s functionality and the bed’s movement during the opening and closing process.

Fasten the Upper and Lower Sections

Position the assembled sides on your workspace, ensuring the 2x2s are on the bottom. Trim two 1×6 boards to a length of 56-1/2 inches and position them at both ends of the sides. Apply glue to the joints and secure the 1x6s by screwing them into the ends of the 1x8s and 2x2s to create a box structure.

Tip

To simplify the concealment of screw heads, you can countersink the screws by partially drilling into the wood with a bit that is slightly larger than the screw head, or by utilizing a dedicated countersink bit.

Install the Central Support

Trim a 2×4 to a length of 75 inches and position it vertically in the center of the box, aligning it at 28-1/4 inches. Secure the 1×6 boards to the ends of the 2×4 using screws.

Install Mattress Supports

Trim eight 1×4 boards to a length of 55 inches and arrange them evenly within the mattress box. Secure them in place by gluing and screwing them to the 2×2 and 2×4 supports.

Secure Mattress Straps

If your hardware kit comes with mattress straps, attach them following the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Attach the leg components and hardware.

Install the leg components from your hardware kit at the lower end of the base, following the guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Utilize any templates or measurements included for accurate placement. Be mindful of whether the legs should be positioned on the exterior or interior of the base’s sides. After securing the hardware, proceed to attach the legs.

Pivot Mounting System

Install the pivot mechanism hardware (either spring or piston) at the upper section of the base, utilizing any templates or measurements supplied by the manufacturer for proper positioning.

Establish the Measurements for the Wall Cabinet

• Space for the pivot mechanism. The necessary space for the pivot mechanism refers to the distance between the exterior of the mattress box and the interior of the wall cabinet. This space will influence the lengths of the top and bottom boards to guarantee adequate room for the hardware.
• The height of the hardware above the floor will influence the height of the sides, since the overall height of the cabinet must take into account the length of the bed box when it is in the closed position.
• Mattress depth. The depth of your mattress will influence how deep your cabinet needs to be, as it must be sufficiently spacious to accommodate the mattress when it is stored.

For illustrative purposes, the subsequent steps consider the cabinet’s necessary interior height to be 80 inches, the interior width to be 60 inches, and the interior depth to be 13 inches. Feel free to modify these measurements as necessary.

Prepare Lumber for Wall Cabinet Construction

Utilize a table or circular saw along with a straight edge to slice the 3/4-inch plywood into two sections, each measuring 15 inches by 80 inches for the sides. Additionally, cut a piece that is 15 inches by 61-1/2 inches for the top. Finally, cut four 2x4s to a length of 60 inches.

Apply Edge Banding

Apply iron-on edge banding to one side of each plywood panel, adhering to the manufacturer’s guidelines for both application and trimming. Additionally, edge band the sides of the top panel.

Sign the Wall

Indicate the spot on the wall where you want to place the cabinet. Also, identify the position of each stud to simplify the process of locating them.

Install the Wall Brackets

Begin by pre-drilling and securing a 2×4 to the wall, positioning the upper edge at a height of 80 inches, utilizing 1/4-inch by 3-1/2-inch lag bolts along with washers. Next, fix a second 2×4 along the wall, resting it on the floor. If needed, use an oscillating multitool and a flat pry bar to cut and take out the baseboard. Finally, install a third 2×4, ensuring its upper edge is at 33-1/2 inches.

Attach the sides of the cabinet.

Position the cabinet sides upright with the edge banding facing outwards, and secure them by screwing into the ends of each 2×4. Then, take the fourth 2×4 and place it on the floor, aligning it with the outer edge of the cabinet, and fasten it by screwing through the cabinet into the 2×4.

Secure the upper section of the cabinet.

Position the upper cabinet component atop the side sections, ensuring the edge piece is oriented outward. Secure the top piece to the upper ends of the side pieces by driving 2-inch wood screws through it.

Trim and Fasten Vertical Nailers

Divide the 2×2 boards into two segments of 42.75 inches each and two segments of 18.25 inches each. Position the longer 2×2 pieces between the upper 2x4s, aligning them with the cabinet sides, and secure them with 2-inch wood screws. Position the leftover boards underneath the central 2×4, ensuring they are flush with the cabinet sides.

Trim Down Sections

Slice a 1/4-inch thick plywood sheet into a single section that is 60 inches by 48 inches. Additionally, cut another section that measures 60 inches by 20 inches.

Install a recessed outlet and optional reading light.

Install the recessed outlet and reading light to utilize a concealed outlet. Create the opening for the outlet at a minimum of 2 inches below the upper edge of the 20-inch tall plywood section. Adhere to the manufacturer’s guidelines for measuring and cutting the opening. If you desire a reading light and outlet on both sides, ensure they are symmetrically placed near the vertical edges of the 1/4-inch plywood.

Attach Back Panels

Apply a line of adhesive to each 2×4 and 2×2, then position the plywood between the cabinet sides and fasten it with brad nails. Begin with the top section, followed by the bottom section. The bottom section is intentionally left unsecured along its bottom edge to provide access to the concealed outlet.

Pivot Mechanism Mounting Components

Install the pivot mechanism components on the sides of the cabinet according to the manufacturer’s guidelines and any templates that may be included.

Install Bed Box in Wall Cabinet

Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines to secure the pivot mechanism and install the bed box inside the wall cabinet. Raise and lower the bed to check its operation and make necessary adjustments before proceeding.

Trim and Secure the External Bed Box Lid

Take a 1/2-inch plywood sheet and divide it into two sections, each measuring 30 inches by 76-1/2 inches. While the bed is in the closed position, attach the pieces to the front of the bed box using glue and brad nails.

Trim the faux door and affix it in place.

Cut 1/4-inch plywood into 3-inch-wide strips. Prepare four strips measuring 30 inches in length and four strips measuring 70-1/2 inches. Attach the strips around the edges of the 1/2-inch plywood using glue and brad nails to form a decorative door.

Install Door Handles

Install door pulls by drilling holes and utilizing the included hardware to enhance the appearance of the faux cabinet door. You may need to lower the bed to tighten the nuts on the rear side. Additionally, these pulls will facilitate lowering the bed by offering a solid grip.

Install the Upper and Lower Molding on the Cabinet.

Trim a piece of 1×6 for both the top and bottom of the cabinet to conceal the exposed interior when the bed is folded up. The width of these trim pieces will vary based on the location of the pivot mechanism on the bed and cabinet, and you might need to opt for a narrower board to fit your setup.

Tip

To improve the built-in appearance of your DIY Murphy bed, consider incorporating moldings such as cove and baseboards at the junctions with the walls and floors.

Seal, Fill, and Coat

Prepare all exposed wood by applying a primer specifically designed for bare wood, following the guidelines provided by the manufacturer for application and reapplication. After the primer has dried, seal all joints and seams with caulk, and fill in any holes made by nails and screws. If needed, use a nail set to drive the nails deeper into the wood. After the caulk has dried, proceed to paint all surfaces with your chosen paint color.

Guidelines for Constructing Your Own Murphy Bed

Utilize these suggestions for Murphy beds to maximize the benefits of your foldable sleeping solution.

• Select the appropriate wood for your Murphy bed. There are various wood options available for constructing a Murphy bed. Opt for the wood that aligns with your design preferences and financial plan. If the hardware kit for your Murphy bed recommends a specific wood type, it’s best to follow that guidance.
• Incorporate custom cabinetry. If you’re already investing effort into creating a cabinet to hide your Murphy bed, consider enhancing the design by adding more cabinetry for additional storage. A straightforward DIY project, such as floor-to-ceiling shelves, can give the Murphy bed cabinet a more polished appearance.
• Exercise caution when operating the Murphy bed. Given the way it moves, there is a risk of pinching. Ensure that all body parts are kept clear of the bed during the opening and closing process. Furthermore, it is important that no one is positioned underneath the Murphy bed while it is being opened or closed, in case of a malfunction that could cause the bed to drop.
• Be mindful of weight restrictions. If your Murphy bed hardware kit outlines specific weight limits, ensure you adhere to them and avoid surpassing these limits. In the absence of a stated weight limit, make sure not to exceed the weight limit of the mattress.
• If needed, take off any extra bedding. If you’re struggling to securely close your Murphy bed, think about taking off bulky items such as quilts, comforters, and pillows. Generally, you can leave the sheets on the mattress.

What distinguishes a Murphy bed from a wall bed?

Although Murphy bed and wall bed are often used interchangeably today, historically, a Murphy bed referred specifically to a design that utilized a spring mechanism, whereas wall beds were equipped with pistons. Currently, the majority of Murphy beds are designed with pistons, as they are more lightweight and simpler to install compared to spring mechanisms.

Is it possible to convert a standard bed into a Murphy bed?

It is possible to convert certain platform beds into Murphy beds by incorporating hardware and constructing a wall cabinethowever, a more effective and secure option would be to create a Murphy bed from the ground up.

How long can you expect a Murphy bed to last?

A well-constructed Murphy bed can endure for 15 years or more, even with frequent use. Those that are utilized infrequently can potentially last even longer.

Is it possible to utilize a Murphy bed on a daily basis?

Many premium Murphy beds are designed for daily use, similar to a conventional bed. In contrast, budget-friendly options constructed from lower-quality materials may start to deteriorate sooner if used on a nightly basis.